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Barbagalli is the most picturesque vineyard I've come across on Etna. Located at 900m in Contrada Rampante on Etna's northern flank, it's a tiny amphitheatre of ancient Nerello Mascalese on fine, dark volcanic soil cohabiting with colourful wildflowers and dotted with olive, fig and cherry trees. Vinified in conical cement tanks, it's then matured in French oak tonneaux (about 10% new) for 20 months. Its incredible perfume of wild red fruits, potpourri and violet, earth, black pepper and a dusty library character from the wood introduces a charming wine full of fleshy and succulent pomegranate and orange peel, followed by some cigar tobacco complexity. Well structured but so generous despite the difficult vintage which saw high humidity and rain at harvest time. A top recommendation. Drinking window: 2023-2046. Score - 97. (James Button, decanter.com, May 8, 2023)