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Amontillado gets unfairly overlooked. It's the apparently intermediate wine - not fino, not oloroso - that's not as cultish as palo cortado. Try this: a star at the recent dinner of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino at London's Savoy hotel. From a family solera established in the 19th century, now in the Castle of San Marcos in El Puerto. Saline, hazelnuts, orange zest, spicy, an elegant riot of flavour. Drinking window: 2021-2031. Part of Sarah Jane Evans, MW: My Top 10 Spanish Fine Wines of 2021. Score - 96. (Sarah Jane Evans, MW, decanter.com, Dec. 23, 2021)