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The autumnal, faintly melancholic nose is a windswept traveler, wrapped in his old leather jacket and blowing cigar smoke into the dying sweet breezes of summer. That sweetness billows one last time on the palate, but the spiced, earthy finish points decidedly toward winter as tannins and acid look on. [Drink: 2025-2038.] Score - 95. (Danielle Callegari, Wine Enthusiast, Dec. 31, 2023)