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Michael Keenan's collection of vineyard parcels at high elevations on Spring Mountain created a totally delicious 2017 Reserve. Its pure mountain-blueberry essence is hard to find outside of a sunny August day spent eating blueberries straight off the bush. There's also a brighter glimmer of red fruit, seeming to reflect off the mineral tannins as the flavors leap out of the glass. A chef friend remarked on the complexity of this wine and how it would be easy to drink a lot of it: 'The tannins are kind of perfect, begging for teriyaki beef.' Those fruit tannins have a delicacy and freshness that's rare in any vintage, and may be a marker for the best of the 2017s. [Drink 2024-2037+.] Score - 95. (Joshua Greene, wineandspiritsmagazine.com, Dec. 2020)