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Paul Hobbs's Seneca Lake winery has cemented, in just a few short years, a spot at the top of NY Riesling. Only the second release, the 2020 is stunning. It's lucid and bright, but also concentrated and powerful, with aromas of lemon pith, apricot kernel, orchard blossoms, talcum powder and nutmeg. The bone-dry, rock-strewn mineral palate is slippery, even a little viscous, but it's quickly drawn into center by a laser beam of crystalline acidity. There's a pulse of juicy citrus to the long, tingly finish. Drinking beautifully now, it has at least another decade of life left. The best part? It's a total bargain. Editors' Choice. Score - 96. (Christina Pickard, Wine Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2023)